Archive for the ‘food + drink’ Category

OLS Week 9: Gnocchi Reprise

Sunday, August 3rd, 2008

I buy just about every local foodstuff I can get my hands on, but with every new product I try, my favorite remains the same: potatoes. Having local potatoes means a meal becomes a meal; a starch has the honor of joining the plate alongside meat and vegetables. Potatoes are just about the only starch I’ve found locally, and I include them in meals often. I usually cook them the same way–simply roasted, with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and pepper–but every once in a while i get the urge to do them justice.

Enter gnocchi.

For potatoes, gnocchi may well be the prom (god, that’s a horrible analogy, but i’m distracting watching King Corn as I write this, so humor me this once): a chance to get decked out and dressed up and transform from everyday to elegant. It’s the best way I can think of to honor the one local product I appreciate the most.

I tried making gnocchi last summer, and while it wasn’t a complete failure, it certainly wasn’t an effort I was proud of. This year, I was determined to do gnocchi right.

With gnocchi, texture is everything. It is an absolute must that each shape be pillowy and soft, yielding gently beneath a fork and luxuriously melting on the tongue. The texture of the final product depends on the condition of the dough, and I came across two great recipes that do great jobs of indicating what the dough should be like. Elise at simply recipes offers helpful photos along with a recipe, and Heidi over at 101 cookbooks includes excellent step-by-step descriptions with her gnocchi recipe. While I opted to follow a recipe in my copy of The Professional Chef, I relied both on the photos and descriptions as I went along.

I’m proud to say that this year’s effort came out much better, if not near perfect.

Here’s the ingredients, for

Whole Wheat Gnocchi with Fresh Tomato Basil Sauce:

Oops. there were eggs in there too, and butter. They didn’t make it into the photo. Here’s the dough–essentially cooked, mashed potatoes, flour, butter, and eggs–rolled out for cutting:

the cut gnocchi:

and the final product–whole wheat gnocchi with fresh tomato basil sauce:

and the meal–rustic and comforting:

homebrew pairings

Thursday, July 31st, 2008

So, I’ve been homebrewing for a solid five months now, and have a solid seven batches of homebrew to show for it. It’s pretty satisfying, I have to say. (The complete list should be here, but I’ve been a bit delinquent in updating the archive).

Anyway, I took a look at our fridge and our “cellar” (read: shelf in the spare bedroom) today, and realized that I can think of no reason to buy commercial beer for some time. Well, there will always be reasons (visitors who don’t appreciate the homebrew; inevitable trips to neighborhood bars; equally inevitable trips to breweries and brewpubs where growler-fills are offered), but they are the extraordinary. For day-to-day needs (aka a beverage with dinner), the homebrew operation seems to have things covered.

The cellar right now has: a pale ale, a porter, a wheat beer, two IPA’s, and a thrid IPA that will be ready to drink on Saturday (It’s a Blind Pig clone–I’m excited). Granted, that’s not the most versatile array in the world–I admit it’s skewed toward the hoppy end of the spectrum–but it affords plenty of choices.

Plenty  of choices means that each evening when a meal is simmering on the stove, I spend some time contemplating which beverage will best accompany the evening’s dinner. Sometimes it’s wine, sometimes it’s water, occasionally it’s milk, but a good amount of time, it’s a beer I want next to my plate. Today, it was most certainly beer, and I do have to say, the pairing was sublime.

Ever since the Liars’ Club left Mission Beach, I’ve had an insatiable craving for completely unhealthy, extremely comforting grilled sandwiches (it’s a weakness I’ll never be ashamed of). Right around the same time of the unfortunate closing, I was (generously) gifted a Le Cruset set that happened to include a griddle pan. Having the pan stare me in the face in the kitchen, and having the Liars’ Club sandwiches completely vanished from my radar, I knew I had to put an end to my cravings. Enter the grilled cheese.

I think I learned how to make grilled cheese in 4th grade; maybe earler. But regardless of the timeframe, I count it as one of my top-five childhood foods of all time, along with mac and cheese (mom’s version from scratch; not out of the box); english muffin pizzas, blintzes, and spinach quiche–the first “foodie” food I probably ever enjoyed (I think I was 3). Curiously, all of these favorites involve cheese; I just realized that now…

Anyway, as far back as last Saturday, it was declared that Wednesday would be grilled cheese night. The ingredients were nothing special: fresh-baked white bread (unsliced, from Vons), Tillamook extra sharp cheddar, a ripe tomato, homemade caramelized onions, homegrown rosemary, and as a treat, sorpressetta. Somehow the ritual of assembling the sandwiches, buttering the bread (the key is to melt the butter and brush it on), and waiting patiently as the Le Cruset did its work, was as special as it was 20 years ago when I stood around the kitchen watching my mother do the same. All the waiting gave some time to consider a beverage accompaniment too, and I settled on the Vanilla Porter we had brewed some months ago.

It was the smokiness of the caramelized onions that caught my attention first, marrying with the rich underlying tones of the porter. But then it was a hint of sweetness in the cured meat, and the buttery edge to the toasted bread that seemed to embrace the sweet vanilla notes. I spent several bites going back and forth, creamy sandwich to creamy beer–what I deemed a perfect pairing–before I realized I had made this marriage happen.

I’ve eaten in a lot of restaurants and appreciated a lot of wine pairings, but there is nothing like realizing that a beer you made and a meal you made somehow perfectly go together. I’d like to claim that it’s my appreciation of the craft that keeps me homebrewing, or the pleasures of spending an afternoon outdoors, firing up the burner and watching a pot come to a boil (it really does, you just have to be reeeeaaaaly patient)–and it’s definitely in some part both of these–but somewhere, underlying the pleasures of creation are the pleasures of consumption–there’s nothing like the satisfaction of (re)discovering the merits of something you yourself made. While a painter may never be able to see his art in the eyes of his spectators, or a musician be able to hear a song through the ears of his fans, a brewer can always know the pleasures of tasting his beer just as his friends will taste it. And no matter how much I enjoy the brewing process–experimenting, improvising, panicking when something unexpected comes up–I can’t deny that it will always be the pleasure of tasting, and enjoying, and sharing that will give me the most satisfaction.

I never thought I’d be one to take up a hobby, but looks like I’ve found my leisure-time calling.

OLS week #8: most local meal yet?

Monday, July 28th, 2008

I had a particularly fun time with this week’s meal, because I managed to acquire all of the ingredients without getting in a car at all. Between moving to a more central neighborhood last March, and the opening of several new farmers’ markets this summer, there are now seven markets that are within biking distance to my house. It’s an absolute luxury, and means that I can count on buying local produce at least three days of the week (most of the markets are on the weekends; the two most convenient to me are both on Thursday).

Between two bike rides, two farmers’ market visits, and a quick stop for some locally made corn tortillas (they were still warm when I picked them up), I came home with the ingredients for this week’s meal:

Bike Ride Bounty

Grouper and Wahoo Tacos with Peach Salsa

Orange Braised Black Beans

Caramelized Red Onions with Red Pepper and Greens

Grilled Corn on the Cob

Fish Tacos

While there were several dishes that made up the meal, it turned out to be incredibly easy to prepare. Two of the dishes could be prepared hours ahead of time and the others could be cooked within 20 minutes of eating, meaning after just a little prep work, there was little effort involved. I found myself with an afternoon free (I spent most of it working on the garden), with a quick run into the kitchen every half hour or so to stir the stewing pot of beans, take in the increasingly delicious smells, and toss together a quick marinade for the fish.

Excited by the dried beans I picked up from Lompoc, I followed the basic recipe for black beans in my trusted America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, but couldn’t resist substituting some of the water in the recipe with fresh squeezed orange juice from finally-ripe oranges in my backyard. I also added some diced carrots, and between the two, the final result was a deliciously sweet, rich, and colorful medley, perhaps the best dried black beans I’ve made in years.

Orange Braised Black Beans

As for the fish tacos, I was inspired by a citrus marinade I came across here, and put together a similar one, substituting tangerines from my yard for the oranges, and adding diced jalepenos. Rather than grill the fish, as the original recipe called for, I opted for a simple pan fry, adding the marinade after searing the fish on both sides. After pulling the filets from the pan, they practically flaked apart on their own, and it was easy to pull the fish into taco-sized pieces.

Pan-fried Wahoo and Grouper

The peach salsa I threw together is one I will make again and again until peaches go out of season. It was a simple mixture of peaches and pluots, mixed with diced red onion, jalepeno, lime juice, and honey. Spontaneously, I threw in some diced mint, which proved to be the winning facet of the dish. I let the mixture marinate in the fridge to blend the flavors, and then added half an avocado before serving.

Peach and Avocado Salsa

I finished off the meal with a bottle of Santo Tomas Rose Granache which we slipped into the fridge a few hours before dinner, and enjoyed chilled. The port-like sweetness of the wine was the perfect bridge between the sweet and savory flavors of the meal.

After a day spent scouring the farmers’ market, biking through surrounding neighborhoods, and working the backyard garden, this meal was a delicious remider that gastronomical pleasures are to be found all around us, every day.

One Local Summer Week 8

La Locavore de BBQ

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

La Locavore de BBQ

You know you’re a “locavore” when…the local paper does an article about eating locally and you personally know everyone quoted in the article.

The San Diego Union Tribune’s food section this week was dedicated to the “County’s Bounty,” in the form of an article on eating locally by respected beer columnist (and reporter) Pete Rowe. Thanks Pete–I appreciate you and the paper highlighting the bounty that can be found within a short drive of our homes. I also appreciate being mentioned in the same paragraph as sex, power, and money–now if I could only finagle such proximity in my everyday life.

More seriously, I can’t emphasize enough what joy and pleasure seeking out–and subsequently enjoying–local foodstuffs have brought me. I realized this week (and an OLS post to follow will touch more on this) how much I–by default and without thinking–utilize local foods in my daily life. It’s routine to me now–after discovering the quality, coming to meet and know the growers, and respecting the process and effort involved in raising the food I eat, I subconsciously eat local produce, eggs, and what meat and seafood I can find every chance I get.  I encourage anyone out there who is considering trying out what San Diego County has to offer to start visiting a farmers’ market once a week–it’s amazing what a regular trip will do to transform your dinner plate.

That said, I’m also not afraid to enjoy game from halfway across the country, especially when I’m one degree of separation from the hunter. For, when it comes down to it, knowing (and trusting) the person who raised your food is what makes eating local special–I think this applies to some degree regardless of the location (especially if its a product not available within your local foodshed). I’m already looking forward to a most generous offer of a just-hunted wild turkey come November. (If only I realized this could have been an option in July).

OLS Week #6: Plank-Grilled Fish

Sunday, July 13th, 2008

To me, nothing says summer like corn on the cob hot off the grill. This week’s meal was a delicious excuse to indulge.

OLS week 6 on the grill

One Local Summer week 6

The Meal:

Plank Grilled Wahoo and Swordfish with Apricot Sauce

Grilled Wahoo and Swordfish with Apricot Sauce

Corn on the Cob and Foil-Roasted Squash Medley

grilled vegetables

Simple and classic–it doesn’t get more summery.

OLS Weeks 4 & 5

Sunday, July 6th, 2008

It’s OLS catch-up day!  (I apologize for the brevity of this post, but I’ve got a batch of homebrew going and I keep leaping up from the computer to tend to it).

Week 4:

Week 4 found me with a dozen friends over for a backyard barbeque, and the pleasure of realizing I could feed them locally. The meal was nothing fancy–it was more practical than anything–but special in that I was actually able to feed that many people locally. The meal consisted of 5 pounds of Brandt Beef tri tip, two pans of roasted Peruvian blue potatoes, zucchini and baby onion skewers, and a grilled corn, onion, and tomato salad. (The only non-local addition was a can of black beans to the corn salad, because there was a vegan in the mix and I didn’t want her to go hungry).  Plenty of local beer was supplied–both from Ballast Point and from our own collection of homebrew. I dare say it was a hit (although I didn’t take the photos to prove it).

Week 5:

fritatta ingredients

Week 5 brought a meal I’ve been meaning to make for some time: a fritatta. I love the simplicity of the one-dish meal, and with so many local vegetables at the markets these days, it’s always a pleasure to find a dish that can accommodate a wide variety in combination. Plus I love any dish I can make entirely using my trusty cast iron. I used Hillikers Ranch eggs, along with a combination of spinach, zucchini, shitake mushrooms, roma tomatoes and fingerling potatoes.  The entire meal took less than 30 minutes to prep and cook, and was deliciously flavorful.

Vegetable Fritatta

  • 1 Tbsp. + 1 tsp. olive oil
  • 6 fingerling potatoes, sliced
  • 1-2 baby onions, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, diced
  • 2 baby zucchini, sliced
  • 1 cup shitake mushrooms, stems removed and sliced
  • 1 roma tomato, diced
  • 2 cups spinach, diced
  • 2-3 sprigs basil, sliced
  • 1 tbsp. butter
  • 5 eggs, lightly beaten

fritatta preparation

Preheat oven to 350. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat. Meanwhile toss potatoes with 1 tsp. olive oil, place in microwave safe bowl, cover with saran wrap, and microwave 4-6 minutes, until cooked. Set aside. Add oil to skillet and reduce to medium-low heat.  Add onions and saute for 1-2 minutes, until translucent. Add garlic, saute 30 seconds until fragrant. Add zucchini, and saute 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and tomatoes and saute 3 minutes, until mushrooms are cooked through. Add spinach and saute until wilted, 1-2 minutes. Add basil and butter and stir to coat bottom of pan. Add eggs and let sit 30 seconds undisturbed. Working slowly, push eggs around pan, tilting pan to let uncooked portions touch bottom. Push slowly for 2 minutes, until eggs begin to set. Transfer pan to oven and cook, 3-4 minutes, until top is slightly browned and eggs are cooked throughout. Slice and serve.

vegetable fritatta


One Local Summer Week # 3: Grouper!

Sunday, July 6th, 2008

Ah, me and OLS–there’s always a reason for me to get behind.  While busy weekends have kept me from posting, they haven’t kept me from eating delicious local meals. Here’s my meal from OLS week 3 which was easily my favorite meal of the summer so far.

This week I stopped by the World Famous Smoked Fish Co. booth at the North Park farmers’ market, and found locally-caught grouper. I’m always excited when I find a new foodstuff that is both new to me as a local eater and new to me as a home cook in general. And I’d never made grouper.

Grouper is a white fleshed, flaky fish–I mistook it for tilapia at first–and as soon as I saw it I knew it was just what I had been waiting for. It was time to finally use my time-tested fish en papillote recipe for a local meal.

grouper ingredients

Grouper with Green Olives, Heirloom Tomatoes, Basil and Garlic

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Basil and Garlic

Tangerine Juice Braised Green Beans

Roasted Chioggia Beets with Balsamic Drizzle

Grouper

Grouper

  • 2 grouper filets
  • 1 cup cherry tomatoes (I used heirloom), quartered
  • 1 cup green olives (I used California Mission), smashed and pitted
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced
  • 1 small onion, sliced in rings
  • 10 basil leaves, stems removed, sliced thin

Pat Grouper filets dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Take one sheet aluminum foil per fish, drizzle 1 tsp. olive oil and spread across foil. Place enough onion slices to cover foil where fish will sit. Place fish atop onions. Layer fish with garlic slivers, tomatoes, crushed olives, and basil. Drizzle with several drops of foil and seal packets. Place packets in 400 degree oven and roast for 20 minutes, opening packets slightly halfway through.

roasted beets and braised green beans

Roasted Chioggia Beets and Braised Green Beans

One Local Summer Week 3

A plate of grouper, beets, and beans

One Local Summer Week #2: Elk!

Sunday, June 15th, 2008

Ok, I took some liberties with “local” this week, when I decided to explore the depths of my freezer and came across two elk ribeye steaks that a friend had given me last summer. The meat comes from his family’s ranch in Minot, North Dakota, and was part of an enormous dry-ice packed cooler that is sent to San Diego each season. I eagerly accepted the steaks when he offered them, but had let them hide in the back of the freezer for some time because, well, I wasn’t sure if I could do the steaks justice.

But this week, the time just seemed right, and out of the freezer and into a skillet they went. While they are from halfway across the country, somehow eating game hunted by a friend’s family seems just as much in the spirit of local as eating produce grown by a farmer you know. In fact, even though the meat was from hundreds of miles away, I still felt very close to my meal. I’m excited to have had the chance to cook them and proud to include them in this week’s “local” meal.

Here’s went into this week’s meal:

Elk, Smashed Potatoes, Summer Squash, and Collard Greens

Pan-Seared Elk Ribeye Steaks

Braised Collard Greens

Saute of Carrots, Summer Squash and Sage

Smashed Peruvian Blue Potatoes

Santo Tomas Red Table Wine

Santo Tomas Red Table Wine

The recipe for the steaks came from a recipe for beef ribeyes on Epicurious, which allowed me to use a bottle of red table wine from Santo Tomas winery that I picked up on a recent trip to La Bufadora, in Baja, Mexico. The recipe proved easily adaptable to Elk, although the thick steaks I had did require a bit longer searing time. The key to elk, apparently, is to cook it no more than medium rare (130 degrees), lest the meat become too tough–I did just that and the steaks came out perfectly tender. For the pan sauce, I simply omitted the non-local soy sauce and had a local sauce that was rich and luscious.

Elk Ribeye Steaks with Red Wine Sauce

I’ve always thought of collard greens as something that required a long simmer with a ham hock, but I stumbled across a vegetarian version that adds flavor through an onion and spices. Coincidentally, it comes from a local vegetarian restaurant, the Che Cafe on the UCSD campus.

Vegetarian Collard Greens and Summer Squash with Honey Balsamic Glaze

Inspired by the balsamic vinegar I picked up from Temecula Olive Oil Company, I whipped together a honey balsamic drizzle for the carrot and summer squash mixture. The honey I have, from Chrystal’s Pure Honey, is a sage blossom honey, so I couldn’t help but throw some fresh sage into the mix.

And then there’s my favorite new potato recipe, smashed potatoes. I simply roasted the whole potatoes for 40 minutes at 425, then smashed them with a mallet to break the skins before serving. They’re delicious drizzled with olive oil and garlic, or can even stand alone.

Smashed Peruvian Blues

I also had fun this week pouring over the vivid and engaging Local Flavors, the new cookbook from Deborah Madison. I encourage anyone participating in OLS (or anyone just wanting to cook straight from the farmers’ market) to pick up a copy!

One Local Summer Week 1

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

This week was the first week of one local summer, and I kicked it off with a classic: steak and potatoes.

tri-tip, potatoes, and grilled artichokes with cherry tomatoes

Ok, it was a little more involved than just steak and potatoes. Here were the dishes:

Cherry & Vanilla Porter Marinated Tri-Tip with Porter-Glazed Shitake Mushrooms

Grilled Artichokes with Sauteed Grape Tomatoes and Dill

Tri-Color Medley of Roasted Potatoes

This meal was the meal I wished I could make last summer, a meal that was comforting and satisfying, yet simple enough to entertain a crowd. Ok, it was also a meal inspired by our latest batch of homebrew: a vanilla porter. Last year, my first One Local Summer was an ambitious undertaking, a meal that involved a great deal of creativity and care but that, despite all efforts in the kitchen, was not one I’d feed to a crowd. I was even apprehensive of feeding it to one other person, because when it came down to it, it was a meal of little more than vegetables. (What I knew was local at the beginning of the summer).

This year, I was surprised at how little effort went into the planning of the meal. I simply went to my weekly market, picked up some potatoes, some vegetables, and steak, and knew I could invite a few others to share. The steak here (which I never explored during last year’s OLS) is from Brandt Beef, based in Brawley, CA. The potatoes and the produce were picked up from the Horton Square and North Park farmers’ markets and are from Carlsbad (artichokes, cherry tomatoes) and Escondido (potatoes, mushrooms).

tri tip, vanilla porter, cherries, mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, artichokes, more

The Recipes:

Cherry Vanilla Porter Marinade

(adapted from Sam Calgione’s “Ultimate Steak Ale Marinade,” in Extreme Brewing: An Enthusiast’s Guide to Brewing Craft Beer at Home.)

tri tip in cherry porter vanilla marinade

  • 1/4 c olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1/4 tsp. rosemary, diced
  • 10 cherries, crushed with juices, pits removed
  • 12 oz. vanilla porter (room temperature)
  • 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed pepper

Heat oil over medium low heat in skillet. Add garlic, shallots, and rosemary and simmer until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add cherries and their juice and stir to combine. Add porter and stir frequently to avoid spill-over. Simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add vinegar and pepper and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Pour over steak and let marinade at least 3 hours.

Broiled Tri-Tip

sliced tri tip with glazed shitake mushrooms

  • 1 2-pound tri-tip, marinated as above
  • salt and pepper to taste

Preheat broiler. Remove steak from marinade and reserve marinade for steak sauce, if desired (see below). pat steak dry and season with salt and pepper. Broil 4-5 minutes on each side, flipping once, until steak is browned on both sides and measures 130 degrees in center. Remove from broiler and tent with foil for 5 minutes. Carve into 1/2 inch slices. Top with porter-glazed mushrooms and pass with cherry porter reduction, if desired.

Cherry Porter Reduction

  • 3 cups steak marinade (see above)

Pour marinade into saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook over high heat 15-20 minutes, until liquid becomes thick and has reduced by 3/4. Pour into gravy boat for passing.

Porter Glazed Shitake Mushrooms

  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 cups shitake mushrooms, sliced
  • 5 sage leaves, diced
  • 1/4 cup porter or other dark ale
  • 1 Tbsp. butter

Heat oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and saute for 1-2 minutes, until slightly wilted. Add sage and beer and simmer until liquid is reduced by 1/2. Stir in butter until melted. Spoon atop steak before serving.

Grilled Artichokes with Tomato and Dill medley

(artichoke part inspired by Giada De Laurentiis’s method.)

roasted artichokes with cherry tomatoes and dill

  • 3 artichokes
  • 3 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 1 lemon, quartered (for juicing)
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 2 cups cherry or grape tomatoes
  • 1 Tbsp. fresh dill

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Cut all but 1″ off stems, and cut 1″ off top of each artichoke. Peel off outer leaves and snip top 1/4″ of remaining leaves. Cut each artichoke in half, and then each half into thirds, so you have 18 triangular wedges. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut out the hairy part of each wedge (the choke) and discard. Working in batches if needed, blanch artichoke wedges in boiling water for 5-7 minutes. Remove from water and drain. Toss with 2 tbsp. olive oil, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Set aside. (Can be done ahead). Preheat grill. Brush grill with oil and grill pre-blanched artichoke wedges for 2-4 minutes per side. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tbsp. oil over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and sautee 1 minute, until fragrant. Add tomoatoes and saute 2-3 minutes, until tomatoes begin to wilt. Add dill, salt, and pepper, and sautee for 1 minute more. Set aside. To serve, plate artichoke wedges and spoon cherry mixture over top.

Roasted Potatoes

(adapted from the America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook- new potatoes take much less time to take than average red potatoes)

peruvian blues, german butterball, and red bliss potato medley

  • 2 lbs. mixed new potatoes (I used peruvian blues, red bliss, and german butterball)
  • 2 tbsp. olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425. Quarter potatoes and toss with all but 1 tsp. of olive oil, salt and pepper. Rub remaining olive oil on two 9×12″ baking pans or one large baking sheet (I’ve found the potatoes become crispest when using an enameled cast-iron baking pan such as a Le Creuset). Spread potatoes out on baking pans, placing one cut side down and leaving as much space as possible between pieces (two pans works better than one). Cover with foil and place in oven for 10 minutes. Remove foil and cook for another 10 minutes. Remove pans from oven and working carefully so as to not break the potatoes, flip pieces so that the second cut side touches pan. Return to oven and cook an additional 7-10 minutes, until potatoes are crisp on both sides. (note: cooking time will need to increase for older potatoes. I used potatoes that were dug from the ground two days before they were cooked).

Three important things about toronado

Saturday, May 31st, 2008

1. Yes, they serve sausages.

tonight there were 6 options:knockwurst, hot italian, linguica, veal bratwurst, a veal/pork brat, and one more i can’t remember. We ordered the linguica (taking up chef dylan’s suggestion), and the pork/veal brat, which were EXCELLENTLY paired with the Hollister “The j” and the Pizza Port Carlsbad Ruby Black, respectively. Lets just say the pairings were perfect–the bacony smokiness of the J pairing amazingly with the flavorful punch of the linguica, and the sweet coffee flavors marrying with the sweet undertones of the brat. (yes, you read that right-bacony smokiness–it’s a must-try)

The only other thing on the menu was the cheeseburger. Yes, seriously, as in cheeseburger, cheeseburger, cheeseburger, belushi style. (I was half-wishing one of the bartenders would say “no coke, beer” when i tried to order). No matter–despite the tempting combination of maytag blue, spinach, and beef, there’s no doubt you have to order a sausage when eating at Toronado. (Ok, between the two of you, order a cheeseburger and a sausage, but for god’s sake, split them). Toronado means beer + sausage, right? (although I was assured that a more intricate menu was forthcoming, which I’m excited about, and which, eventually, I will probably let distract me from those perfect sausages).

2. My god, the place is small.

We arrived just shy of 8:00, snagged the last two bar stools, and spent the next two hours watching the space around us fill up. Granted, we saw some old Liars Club comrades, and a few other familiar faces, but we also saw an onslaught of 30 + wig-bearing members of the equivalent of brother love’s traveling salvation show, who uncomfortably took over the space during a stop-over of a 30th street bar-hopping tour. moral of the story: get in before 8:30 to secure a seat.

3. the beer selection is UNRIVALED

um, unrivaled in San Diego, that is. (or maybe california-wide, or maybe nation-wide; i’m not in the position to judge). but yes, that’s about 52 taps you count. 52! I spent a good five minutes perusing the list above the bar, then another 5 minutes eliminating all the beers I’d tried, then another 5 minutes narrowing down the remaining selection. This is a place to please your taste buds, to satisfy your curiosity, to continue to learn about beer. which is good, because based on tonight I will be back often.

As it stands, after dinner and two rounds, it was time to move the evening away from the crazy wig-bearing-bar-crawlers and on to the legitimacy of a home brew. so toronado, as much as I love you so far, you’ve yet to beat putting on the new hold steady album, pouring a pint of homebrewed vanilla porter, and retiring to the couch…

operative word there being yet: i have faith you’ll come about in the next few weeks, adding the food and the ambiance, and certainly continuing to boast the beers that will keep me there for hours and hours…(um, might i also suggest you try to attract the hold steady when they’re in town next weekend??)

all in all, welcome to the ‘hood.